"This is an old, old style of Italian cooking," continued Fran, running his finger down F.J. Soleo’s menu and pointing out fried smelts, pork skin brascioli, dandelions, home-made sausage, Savoy cabbage, Ricotta cheese pie. "It’s no-frills," insisted Fran, but Joan and I know better: F.J. Soleo’s is a serious restaurant that bothers with fine service. Frills are everywhere, from the bowl of candies that are offered, just inside the front door, to the bottles of garlic-and-pepper-infused olive oil that stand tall on every table. In addition to what Fran calls "peasant foods," Soleo’s has sophisticated best-sellers like Veal Mediterranean, a pricey entree featuring twin lobster tails and veal medallions, drizzled with seafood-studded cream sauce and served on a bed of Fettuccini; and Sparerib brascioli, an herb-stuffed rack of meltingly tender ribs, rolled and sautéed in a fresh plum tomato sauce. Insiders have flocked to Soleo’s ever since it opened in a Forbes Avenue storefront, nearly four years ago. Its inaugural crowd of regulars were followers of Chef Fran, who’d cooked at Antonio’s in East Haven for three decades. These dedicated foodies ignored the fact that Soleo’s space was previously Planet Mars, an alien-themed nightclub with black windows, black walls and fuzzy green pool tables. Joan Solevo, along with artist/friend/waitress Judy Natalino, transformed the three-room restaurant by adding lace curtains, lush plants, artwork, and hand-painted walls. At least one vestige of Planet Mars still exists: the bar is embedded with tiny aliens, plus action figures and insignias from "Star Trek" and "Star Wars." "It grew on us," said Joan with a laugh. Of course, F.J. Soleo’s origins are much older than Spock or Kirk. Fran was a home-schooled cook who learned the secrets of Italian cuisine from his New Haven-born parents, who in turn had been taught by their Neapolitan parents. Chef Fran started cooking at Antonio’s in East Haven back in 1972; when it came time to open the new place, he honored his ancestors by using the original spelling of his last name. Joan, for her part, does much of the baking at F.J. Soleo’s — an art she learned from her mother. "At Easter, I made 14 traditional Easter pies for the restaurant, and my 86-year-old mother rolled out all the crusts for me," said Joan, adding with a laugh, "She’s still my biggest critic." Soleo’s is very much a family restaurant, and it has the warm, personal service to prove it. Nearly half the patrons seem to be greeted with a hug; in a small hallway near restrooms marked "Guys" and "Dolls" is a gallery of favorite customers, including Joe Frazier and Gov. John Rowland. A party room behind the lounge is a popular spot for all sorts of gatherings, from breakfast meetings to bridal showers. But it is, after all, the food that remains F.J. Soleo’s major draw. Joan and Fran insist that dining at the restaurant is "just like being home." Which might be true, if your home kitchen routinely turned out seasoned razor clams, hand-cut beef, blue-shell crab sauce from scratch, and old-fashioned ice-box cake. Mine doesn’t, but I’m glad Soleo’s does.

THE ESSENTIALS • Place: F. J. Soleo's, 446 Forbes Ave. (Route 1), New Haven. • Phone: (203) 467-6942. Fax: (203) 469-5064. • Hours: Dinner: 5-9 p.m. Mondays, 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, 1-9 p.m. Sundays. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m Mondays-Fridays. Happy Hour: 4-6:30 p.m. Fridays, including reduced drink prices and food on buffet tables in the party room (You'll never know what you'll get," says Joan.)

 • Reservations: Suggested, especially on weekends.

 • Food: Old-world Italian cuisine is presented in a warm, attractive storefront restaurant with hand-painted walls and a large, comfortable bar. A long list of specials, featuring Chef Fran's freshest favorites, is offered daily. Recommended dishes include appetizers of Calamari Soleo ($10.95), which the chef says is "calamari taken to a different level"; Razor Clams Casino ($10.95), a rarely-seen dish featuring large, meaty, salt-water razor clams; and a Seafood Salad ($8.95) with shrimp, scungilli and calamari. Entrees are served with a house salad and homemade dressing. Favorite pastas include Capellini with peas and prosciutto in a cream sauce ($15.95), and Eggplant Soleo, a layered lasagna ($15.95). In a section of the menu called Old Neapolitan Favorites are Broccoli Rabes with house-made sausage ($14.95), and Sparerib Brascioli ($18.95). Other popular choices are Sautéed Shrimp in a blue crab sauce over linguini ($20.95); Fresh-cut Swordfish ($22.95); Pan-Fried Pork Chops with hot and sweet peppers ($21.95); and Veal Mediterranean, featuring veal medallions in a lobster cream sauce with two split lobster tails, served over Fettuccini ($29.95). Most desserts are made by Joan, and include Ice Box Cake, Cream Puffs, Chocolate Lava Cake, Rice Pie and Custard Pie. At lunch, a smaller selection of appetizers and entrees includes Fried Smelts ($6.95); Stuffed Fryers (featuring friselle, cheese, garlic, anchovies and eggs, $5.95); Stuffed Artichoke ($4.95); Hot Dogs & Peppers ($8.95); Dandelions & Beans with Sausage ($8.95); Chicken Cacciatore ($9.95) and more.

 • Drink: A full bar is at the ready, supplemented by a well-chosen wine list with approximately 40 bottles from Italy and the U.S. in the $21-$70 range. A number of wines by the glass are featured, starting at $5.25 for a Castello Di Querceto Chianti and topping out at $7.50 for a Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Merlot. • Wheelchair access: Through the front and back doors.

 • Smoking: Allowed at bar and in lounge area (approximately six tables for dining). • Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover, Diner's Club. • Kids: Kitchen will cook to order.

 • Parking: In dedicated lot to the side and rear of restaurant, or on the street. • Private parties: F. J. Soleo's has a private party room that can accommodate up to 30 people; the main dining room is also available for private functions, featuring buffet-style dining.

Todd Lyon of New Haven is a free-lance writer. Contact her at toddlyon@earthlink.net.